Dec 31, 2007

Xi'an - The Former Capital.

During the later half of the Festivus which was still going strong at my apartment, Marion, Corina, and I were whisked away to the Beijing railway station and found ourselves on the sleeper train for a 12-hour journey to Xi'an.



It was rather muggy out when we checked into the Bell Tower Youth Hostel upon arrival the next morning. The hostel walls were adorned with tags, illustrations, and country flags of the people who had stayed here.



As the name would imply, the hostel was right at the centre of Xi'an, across from the Drum & Bell Tower, so we ventured out to discover it for ourselves. To our surprise, these towers were more impressive than the ones in Beijing in that they were restored to its former glory with drum and bell performances throughout the day. We met up with a few friends we met here in Beijing to take part in the delightful concerts.



The Great Mosque was another attraction in Xi'an which was also walking distance from our hostel. Friends have told me that the food found in restaurants along the Beiyuanmen Islamic street are not to be missed, and they were right! We indulged in lamb kebabs, among other things, by the mouthful and returned to this Muslim quarter time after time for more great eats. The streets were also bustling with vendors hawking everything from t-shirts, trinkets, toys, fake goods, art, and novelty gifts. One of the more interesting things I found here was a traditional flute called Tao Xun, a bulb-shaped instrument made of pottery clay with small holes placed at the front and back of it, with a larger hole (the mouth piece) at the top. These flutes had various designs etched on the front of it. I bought one with a beautiful motif of a panda eating bamboo, another of a lotus leaf, and yet another one with cherry blossoms on it, all for only five kuai each! The other treasure I found was that of a beautiful woodcut print depicting an image of a man irrigating in a tall bamboo forest at night with another man holding up a lantern assisting him. This woodcut print stood out among all the rest when I walked into the shop owned by Professor Ding Ji Tang and his daughter. Marion, Corina, and I were drawn to his works of art and were further intrigued in his history in China as an art professor. This elder gentleman spoke in broken English about his post at the Chinese Ministry of Culture during Mao's Cultural Revolution and showed us newspaper and magazine clippings to paint a picture. We listened with fascination.



Our trip in Xi'an wouldn't have been nearly as fun as it was without the local CSers we met there. LEOYE and TONYART filled our evenings with dinner gatherings and several nights of clubbing with their friends and took us to their favourite restaurants and clubs in the city. Along with more pork and lamb kebabs, we also tried something called Belt Noodle, a wide and long noodle resembling a belt in a big bowl of spicy soup, which required some skill to pick up with a chopstick as it was heavy as well. Our three nights of drinking and clubbing carried on into the wee hours of the morning so we had to be considerate of our dorm-mates being as quiet as a mouse when returning to our beds at the hostel. As a result, we never really got to know the five other guests we shared the room with as they would leave for their own excursions just a few hours after our return.



We had one exception, however, with a friendly guy from India named Chou. A professional photographer here for only one night, we went to see the Terra Cotta Warriors together. Seeing firsthand the rows of these soldiers, all of which had individual faces, was quite a sight.



From the Huaqing Hot Springs we visited afterwards to the Stone Tablet Forest and Xi'an History Museum on another day, not to mention the Big Goose Pagoda where monks were seen walking around with mobile phones to their ears, Xi'an offered us so much that we went back to the railway station to extend our stay from four to five nights! Much thanks to the Singaporean bar owner we befriended at one of the bars along the bar street for the round of beers on the house!

Needless to say, Marion, Corina, and I had the time of our lives. Xi'an, we miss you!










Tao Xun Performance.




Hawkerbots.




Twisting Tongue.


Dec 25, 2007

A Festivus for the Rest of Us.

I was rather disappointed by the fact that no one was taking the initiative to celebrate this holiday season. I pulled off a fantabulous party last year which included an authentic roast turkey from Paul's Steak & Eggs and had hoped that someone else in the community would reciprocate this year. Clearly, something had to be done, so several core members of CS got together to brainstorm. I pulled it off once again: a successful all-inclusive Festivus for close friends, CouchSurfers, and everyone else who could come. Despite the fact that I had a train to Xi'an to catch at night, I accommodated and made arrangements with friends to 'close up' for me. Thanks meldymel and affeegon for all your help!











The invitation was then posted on the CS Beijing forum as follows:

So it would appear that no one is doing anything special this holiday season, or at least not taking the initiative to start something up and be inclusive of ALL, leaving expats and visitors with nothing to look forward to but reminisce in fond memories of what used to be back home.

From the desperate cries left by the few on the forum, and as the time draws nearer, it was made quite clear that something needed to be rectified.

For those of you not attending extravagant private dinner parties at the Hilton, swishing copious amounts of Champagne with your noses high up in the air, and conforming to oppressive dress codes, I open my doors to you:











A Festivus for the Rest of Us

You are cordially invited to petshopboy's flat on Tuesday, December twenty-fifth, two-thousand-seven, at sixteen-hundred hours, for a low key celebration to what was, what is, and what will be.

Please bring your own plates, cups, and utensils (preferably an environmentally friendly, non disposable kind), a wrapped gift valuing between 30 - 40 RMB (we'll be playing Secret Santa), and enough food for yourself as a contribution to the pot-luck dinner (something home made is always best, but take-away and store-bought food and alcohol will be accepted as well).

Address:
DongWangZhuang
Building 26, Unit 6, Suite 301
Wudaokou

A 10 minute walk north from the Wudaokou subway station.

For assistance, please call any one of the core group members of CS Beijing:

petshopboy - 133.nine.one.nine.eight.6290
ranran-bj - 132.four.one.four.three.5456
meldymel - 158.one.zero.nine.six.3549
leoloso - 131.four.six.eight.four.0684

So there you have it. Because I try hard to be accommodating, I had to make a compromise. I've got a train to catch right after the party, so I'm afraid I'll have to say good night to you all at 1900.

Peace, love, and joy to you all!


Aside from having one unfortunate incident involving a local CSer (couplewang) and his Chinese entourage using my gathering as a platform for him to advertise his money-making enterprise, the Festivus went very well, indeed. People came in from the woodwork with gifts, food, and drinks and were having a merry time.



















Festivus '07.


Dec 8, 2007

Shanhaiguan.

Kim and I took yet another weekend excursion today, though this time, we went to visit Shanghaiguan.

We got up super early this morning and caught the 0750 train from the Beijing Railway Station, about an hour away from Wudaokou. My eyes were still bloodshot from the lack of sleep, but I'm crazy this way. It was around 1100 when we reached Beidaihe and the afternoon sun was shining down on us. After batting away the ruthless Chinese "entrepreneurs" who are all too ubiquitous around train stations and airports offering to be your personal driver for an extravagant amount of money, we boarded the local bus which took us to Shanhaiguan city centre. From here, we took a cab to the actual part of the Great Wall we wanted to see, the Old Dragon's Head (Laolongtou), where the Wall actually begins. As you could see from the pictures, this section of the wall got its name from the design of the watchtower, looking like a head of a dragon drinking water from the ocean.

It was refreshing to be by the seaside again as Beijing is just a dust ball of a city in a desert.





Dec 4, 2007

One Night in Beijing Launch party.

From the people who brought us The Insiders Guide to Beijing and Mandarin Phrasebook, a new book called One Night in Beijing came off the press and was given a lavish launch party at Block 8 tonight. I, along with BARRYFUN and a few of my students I'd invited came along with me for a spectacular evening of social mingling with drinks on the house.

As I was flipping through one of many copies of One Night in Beijing around the bar, I was somewhat disappointed with the photographs within it. The ones I liked were the ones which I'd already seen in That's Beijing magazine as selected previews of this photo album. And at a 150 RMB per copy (120 RMB launch party special), it made owning one even less desirable.

I was fortunate to have met Walk Hall, one of the honoured photographers sitting across from me at the bar. While I was deeply engrossed with the book and pointing out the merits of certain photographs with a student of mine, he had broken my concentration and introduced himself to me with a name card. He was the photographer mentioned in That's Beijing magazine and again in a toast at tonight's party for his unrivalled contribution to the book, the photographer who scampered from sunset at Gulou to shoot at the Forbidden City, then popped into a CCTV editing studio, before blazing out to the Marco Polo Bridge in Fengtai District. From there he ventured to Zhongnanhai, and then to an early morning flower market, before catching sunrise over the Ming Dynasty City Wall Ruins. One night, seven locations... no sleep. Quoted straight from the magazine.

What was even more interesting was that he spoke German! We both had a lot to talk about.


If you're interested in the book, check out Amazon.com. You can even search inside!

Publishers excerpt:

16 million people. 35 photographers. One extraordinary night. From dusk to dawn on August 8-9 2007, exactly one year before the start of the 2008 Olympic Games, 35 of Beijing's most talented photographers fanned out across the city. Their mission: To create a composite portrait of the buzzing metropolis and its incomparable residents. Collected in this handsome book, their photographs capture the beauty, energy, faces, and fleeting possibilities of one night in Beijing: from the official 'festival of jubilation' in Tian'anmen Square to a gathering in an old courtyard home, and from late night in a tattoo parlor to breakfast in a Buddhist nunnery. From place to place, moment to moment, photographer to photographer immerse yourself in the colors, character and élan of One Night in Beijing.

Nov 24, 2007

Dalian and Shenyang.

Dalian was incredible. A majestic city by the seaside which sparkled with a castle in the sky. Sounds like a fairy tale, but I assure you it isn't!



Unlike the hustle and bustle of Beijing, Dalian was the scenic reprieve I was looking for. We stopped by the Russian district for some great shopping on the streets selling everything from tripods, tools, and furry Russian hats to toys, trinkets, and hand-carved handiwork. Amongst the rubbish, I found an old man manning a table full of beautifully painted Matryoshka dolls of various sizes. I couldn't resist the charm I found in him and the dolls so I bought one.











We were hungry for some seafood, so after visiting the square, we found a Macanese hot pot restaurant nearby. The fuwuyuan who served us there was a friendly girl in her early twenties who stood by our table to cook for us, which was pleasantly unexpected.











And I wasn't kidding about the castle in the sky! From within the restaurant, we could see a Disneyland-esque castle between the void space of two luxurious condominiums in the foreground. Upon closer inspection, which required us to walk up several flights of stairs, it really was Disneyland-esque in the sense that it wasn't real at all! This is a recent development by someone with a strange idea who wanted to showcase a collection of seashells in a museum, where the "stone walls" were actually plastered and painted on. Not that we were ever fooled into thinking that ancient China had such castles to begin with...











After coming down from the castle, we were waiting around a bus stop for a bus to take us to the beach, but instead, a middle-aged woman in a small van pulled up beside us and said something in Chinese. Fortunately for me, Kim understood her. The busses we were waiting for only ran during the summertime and so she offered to take us to the sights we wanted to go to for a fee. After negotiating a good price with her (we're accustomed to taking black cabs now), we hopped in and had one of the most jubilant driver ever! She was chatting away endlessly with Kim in the back making eye contact using the rear view mirror and though I hadn't the faintest idea of what she was talking about, I couldn't help but crack a smile and let out a few chuckles as she was just laughing her head off after every few sentences. Further down the road was a backup of cars going nowhere due to a large coach bus blocking both lanes. I got out from the vehicle to investigate the situation and found out that it was involved in a small accident with a Honda Civic as it was trying to negotiate a turn on a narrow bend. Though there were only minor scratches on the side of the coach, the rear bumper on the Honda was on the ground.



Jumping back into the van with Kim and our affable driver, I had the camera rolling when it was our turn to drive onto the sidewalk, drive around the coach, and get back onto the road again. We had a crowd of Chinese people coming out of the woodwork observing us as if we were about to perform a circus act. It was an odd experience, and I'm glad I captured it on film, er, SD card.



Shenyang was a disappointment. It was dark, grey, misty, and cold all day, and there wasn't anything much to see other than the abandoned imperial palace, similar to the Forbidden City in Beijing, but much, much smaller. We went to a well-known restaurant famous for its dumplings located right at the gates to the abandoned imperial palace and had one of the most delicious jiaozu ever. Not only did it look delicious sitting in those cute bamboo steamers, it also had the right texture and it was bursting with flavour.











China sure likes their things big. The Great Wall, The Forbidden City, Tian'anmen Square, and the soon to be the world's largest Ferris wheel in Chaoyang park when it's completed in 2009 comes to mind as prime examples of overcompensating. Where Shenyang was lacking, it surely made up for with the largest statue of Mao Ze Dong at the people's square. "SuperMao" as I have affectionately named it, was standing proud with his right hand extended (similar to Hitler's salute) with an army of troopers behind him carrying weapons and ammunitions. Making a mockery of it was just too easy.











Calligraphy in Dalian




Driving in Dalian